By Aníse Meccouri: Soy Luck Club, New York City
As
an original soy boy, running into this place was like a cool breeze
in the fiery hell of cute little European cafés serving every common
food allergen known to man. At Greenwich Avenue and Jane Street in New
York City, Soy Luck Club's large storefront windows and open,
soft-lit interior beckon to anyone walking along. The hip, retro
design of the inside—with authentic vintage furniture from 1970s—and
polished concrete floors make it hard to forget. On the walls hang
photography from local artists, flowers in vases, and a single enormous
central air conditioning pipe. At night, the little
tables are candle-lit and the hanging spherical lamps turned low, but
there is no pressure to be fancy. They just like it pretty here.
What’s amazing is how low-key and unpretentious Soy Luck Club remains.
Sure, I have sat next to David Duchovny here once, and you will
sometimes witness a dangerous looking gang of 15-year-old girls from
uptown talking incessantly about how cool this place is. For the most
part, though, Soy Luck Club is a place for real-life people to relax or
work on their iBooks with the complimentary free wireless network.
Usually Stan Getz will be playing softly and people remain quietly
polite. The atmosphere is chill without an overpowering statement to
it, so it dispels the common myth that we soy people all have political
agendas and are in fact angry with those who drink milk and eat meat;
not at all. It’s about choices, not substitution. Soy Luck Club serves
meat and dairy upon request, they simply specialize in soy.
And “specialize” could be an understatement. Take, for example, the soy
cappuccino. A cappuccino’s identity relies primarily upon its ability
to maintain a thick and frothy texture of milk upon a shot of espresso.
Historically, this has been very difficult to do with soy milk. Many
have failed and the reasons for failure are arguable. The Soy Luck Club
does not participate in the argument; they don’t need to. They just
effortlessly produce wonderful soy-cappuccinos. They’re the experts,
they know it, no explanation required.
Every basic coffee-based creation here seems luminously original and
set-apart from its competition. But this is real café, not a just a
coffee bar, with many other creative offerings to please the palette.
The aromatic and smooth Green Tea Latte is an amazing soy-infusion, in
that the quality flavors of green tea and whole soy are preserved and
bound, like flower petals wrapped around each other on a spring bloom.
Also, don’t miss the Soy Steamers, high-end soy milk infused with an
ingredient of your choice (honey, ginger, chocolate, coconut,
strawberry, the list goes on), and served in a mug steaming hot. If
it’s one of those muggy, steamy, New York days, grab a Soyafrost;
soymilk, ice, and choice ingredient blended into a smooth and cool
revitalizer. The salads, with names like Spring, Zen and Joy, are no
lettuce and carrot situations. Incorporating things like black soy
(tender black soybeans with a smooth, nutty taste), a soy yogurt dill
dressing (bright and clean tasting), and fresh mint, these salads are
refreshing deviations from any kind of “iceberg blend."
Soy Luck Club also serves wholesome sandwiches filled with things like
creamy avocados, smoked salmon, and fresh herbs, as well as hot pressed
bagels (try the banana, honey, and soynut butter) that are as
satisfying as any PB&J. The prices are moderate (nothing is over
$11) and the West Village, corner location is perfect for
people-watching or just gazing at the little, colorful buildings and
brownstones of Greenwich Avenue and Jane street, most of which have
been around for over a century. It does get crowded on weekends and you
may end up having to share one of the larger tables with one or two
people, but it’s never an unpleasant experience.
So, if you’re looking for a fresh experience involving some clean food
and innovative soy creations, walk into this place and discover soy for
the first time… every time.
|